Devdas to Padmaavat, how costume played an important part in Sanjay Leela Bhansali film
Devdas to Padmaavat, how costume played an important part in Sanjay Leela Bhansali film
Whether it’s the tragic decadence of Devdas, the haunting charm of Guzaarish, or the layered richness of Heeramandi, his costume design remains one of Indian cinema’s most unforgettable visual legacies.
Sanjay Leela Bhansali is undeniably one of the finest and most visionary filmmakers in Indian cinema. His mastery lies in creating grand, immersive cinematic universes that blend opulence with authenticity. One of the most defining elements of his storytelling is costume design, each garment is historically rooted, meticulously styled, and narratively symbolic. From Devdas to Padmaavat, Guzaarish to Heeramandi, Bhansali’s costumes don’t just dress characters, they evoke history, royalty, emotion, and timeless elegance.
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Devdas remains a landmark in costume design. Aishwarya Rai’s heavily embroidered saris, Madhuri Dixit’s dazzling mujra outfits, and Shah Rukh Khan’s elegant sherwanis reflected both the grandeur of the era and the emotional weight of each character’s arc. The costumes immortalised their personas in cinematic memory, poetic, painful, and profoundly beautiful.
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Guzaarish showcased a different side of Bhansali’s visual storytelling- more intimate, European-inspired, and melancholic. Hrithik Roshan’s velvet coats, cravats, and vintage silhouettes evoked old-world charm and reflected the elegance and fragility of his character, Ethan Mascarenhas. Aishwarya Rai’s rich, layered gowns and gothic-inspired styling enhanced the mood of romantic sorrow and timeless beauty. Here, fashion served as poetry, soft, tragic, and full of grace.
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In Ram-Leela, Bhansali merged Gujarat’s vibrant traditional wear with sensual modernity. Deepika Padukone’s mirror-work cholis, ghagras, and Ranveer Singh’s colourful ethnic menswear played a vital role in expressing the film’s fiery passion and cultural backdrop. The costumes enhanced the Shakespearean drama with colour, texture, and emotion.
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Bhansali’s vision in Bajirao Mastani brought the Maratha era to life through fabric and finesse. Ranveer Singh’s battle-ready attire, Priyanka Chopra’s traditional yet graceful Kashibai looks, and Deepika Padukone’s royal warrior ensembles as Mastani reflected not just status, but strength, love, and duty. Each costume was a canvas of period-accurate textiles, embroidery, and storytelling.
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In Padmaavat, royalty met realism. Deepika Padukone’s elaborate lehengas- especially in the iconic Ghoomar sequence- were a testament to Rajputana heritage. Shahid Kapoor’s regal armour and Ranveer Singh’s raw, unhinged Alauddin Khilji look displayed contrasting styles of masculinity and power. Costumes weren’t just aesthetic- they were psychological armour.
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In Heeramandi, every character’s costume, from Manisha Koirala’s majestic saris to Sonakshi Sinha’s intricate ensembles, exudes elegance, power, and cultural richness. Even the male and supporting cast’s wardrobes were crafted with stunning detail and historical accuracy, transporting viewers to a forgotten era of nawabi sophistication. The visual opulence underscores each character’s inner conflict and societal position.
