For more than a decade, retinol has been the undisputed hero ingredient of modern skincare. It's been touted as the gold standard of anti-ageing and acne treatment: one molecule, promising smoother, clearer, younger skin. With celebrity endorsements, dermatologists' prescriptions, and thousands of viral tutorials, it's nearly impossible to imagine a skincare routine without it.
But what if the most lauded ingredient within the beauty space is not quite as universally beneficial as we have been led to believe? In 'Asian Beauty Secrets: Korean Skin Cycling', Dr Teo Wan Lin, a board-certified dermatologist from Singapore, shares with readers why, after over a decade of clinical practice, she made the surprising decision to cease recommending retinoids altogether. Her reasoning offers a powerful wake-up call for anyone who has pushed through pain, peeling and purging in the name of “results”.
Why this dermatologist ditched retinol
Dr Teo writes that she initially followed the traditional dermatology playbook of prescribing retinoids and chemical peel acids, until years of observing real clinical outcomes changed her perspective. She explains that irritation from retinoids was “pretty unpredictable, even in patients deemed ‘hardened’ to retinoids with consistent exposure.”
That unpredictability had serious consequences, particularly for patients with skin of colour, who are biologically more prone to developing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), dark marks triggered by irritation or inflammation. Instead of helping to fade pigmentation, retinoids often made it worse.
She also challenges the assumption that irritation is simply “part of the process”. Instead, she calls it therapeutic futility, a cycle in which the treatment causes the very problem it claims to solve. “Retinoids at any dose work by increasing skin cell renewal, but in a way that increases barrier disruption.”
Barrier damage triggers inflammation; inflammation triggers pigmentation; pigmentation triggers more aggressive treatment, and the cycle repeats. Many readers will recognise this pattern from personal experience, fuelled by the belief that temporary suffering equals progress. But as Dr Teo argues, no long-term result should come at the cost of skin health.
The downside of irritation-based skincare
The book explains that traditional Western cosmetic science has historically centred on isolated high-intensity actives, such as acids and retinoids, that work through controlled damage. The idea is that by irritating the skin, you push it to repair more aggressively.
The problem? Skin is not a machine. It is a living organ with an ecosystem of microorganisms, immune cells and communication pathways that rely on harmony and balance.
Retinoids disrupt this delicate system by triggering inflammation and compromising the moisture barrier. And as Dr Teo points out, the barrier is not a secondary concern; it is the foundation of skin resilience and youthfulness.
Skin irritation also weakens the microbiome, the community of beneficial bacteria that protect against acne, eczema and premature ageing. With new research spotlighting ecological skin health, the old “no pain, no gain” philosophy looks outdated and unnecessarily harsh.
Where the traditional retinol narrative falls apart
Western dermatology has long prioritised efficacy first, managing irritation by spacing applications, layering moisturisers, or adopting skin cycling — a regimen of alternating retinol nights and rest-and-repair nights to minimise damage. But the book questions whether this approach makes sense at all.
“Skin cycling aptly describes the futility of our current traditional regimens.” If a product requires breaks, complicated schedules and recovery periods to function safely, can it truly be considered a sustainable, everyday solution?
The plant-based alternative that changed everything
Instead of retinol, Dr Teo’s practice now focuses on whole-plant actives such as bakuchiol (a natural retinol alternative), berberine, papain and bromelain, ingredients backed by both traditional ethnobotany and modern clinical research.
Unlike synthetic retinoids, whole-plant extracts come packaged with a natural cocktail of anti-inflammatory and antioxidant compounds that protect the skin while repairing it. She describes them as “a whole ingredient” that “naturally mitigates any inflammation or irritation”
This holistic formulation style, central to K-beauty and C-beauty, contrasts strongly with Western single-active minimalism. In Asian botanical science, a long ingredient list is not a red flag but a sign of synergistic intelligence, where multiple extracts enhance one another’s action rather than compete.
The microbiome changes everything
The most compelling argument against retinol is emerging scientific evidence around the skin microbiome, a frontier reshaping dermatology.
“Plant actives are far more suited as therapeutic options applied topically”
This aligns perfectly with Asia’s heritage of herbal medicine, fermented essences, and adaptogenic skincare, concepts now trending worldwide.
Is retinol cancelled?
Not necessarily. Retinol still has measurable anti-ageing and acne benefits, and many dermatologists continue to use it successfully. The issue is not that retinol is ineffective, but that it is over-prescribed and often presented as a universal solution rather than a specialist tool.
A more realistic approach acknowledges:
- Not everyone’s skin can tolerate retinoids safely
- Results should never require damage and recovery
- Plant science can offer equally powerful alternatives
- Sustainable skincare strengthens, not stresses
Ultimately, the question becomes:
Do we want fast results, or long-lasting skin health?
For Dr Teo, the answer is clear, and it’s changing the way many people view their routines.
Skincare isn’t supposed to hurt. It shouldn’t feel like surviving a war zone. The future belongs to resilient, microbiome-friendly, plant-powered skincare, not products that demand we burn and peel for beauty.
And honestly? That might be the most refreshing shift the industry has seen in years.
Also read: How to fix winter dryness in 2025? The easy skin routine everyone needs this season
