Designers put traditional Indian craft in the spotlight on Thursday at the country's biggest fashion event, which opened a day late after organisers failed to furnish mandatory fire safety permits.
All shows at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week were cancelled on Wednesday and organisers scrambled to get all necessary clearances overnight.
Sunil Sethi, president of the Fashion Design Council of India which organises the fashion week, said one more day would be added to the five-day schedule to accommodate designers from the cancelled shows.
On Thursday, designer Tarun Tahiliani marked a return to traditional craft with hand-done Indian fabrics, embroidery and his signature draping.
The collection included sarongs, long-tailored coats and trademark sari drapes mostly in dull muted colours.
"I consciously used Indian fabric. I feel we've been a little too western," Tahiliani said after his show.
Designer Kavita Bhartia showcased a collection dominated by black graphic prints with floral details and an abundance of hand-crafted embroideries and tie-and-dye silhouettes.
"I think it was important to take all the best India has to offer and present it in a modern way," Bhartia said.
Pallavi Mohan drew inspiration from the mystical world of "Alice in Wonderland" for her rainbow line of evening gowns, tunics and shift dresses.
Around 130 designers are showcasing their Autumn/Winter 2010 collections at the fashion week, which will close on Monday.